Diamond Education
The 4 C'sDiamond Anatomy & Cut Quality
Although each diamond is unique, they all share the same anatomy. This anatomy affects sparkle, perceived size, and everything else that matters about a diamond.
Understanding these will help you find quality stones beyond just the 4C’s.
Understanding the 4 C’s of Diamonds Shopping
According to gemologist and jeweler Andrew Mills, it’s important to note that the 4Cs grading system is a guideline, rather than a “good” or “bad” scale. “The first thing to keep in mind when reading about the 4Cs is that there is no right answer.
What really matters is what YOU think of the diamond and its natural appearance.
Even if a diamond hits the top of every scale, it will naturally cost the most, but that doesn’t necessarily make it any more beautiful than a more affordable diamond. And, all of the 4Cs are factored together, not just individually, when weighing the diamond’s value. Essentially, the idea that a diamond has to be “perfect” across all 4Cs is a misconception—there is no “correct” set of diamond specs.
Clarity
This C involves the number of natural imperfections, called inclusions, present in the diamond, and whether you can see them with the unaided eye. The GIA grading scale rates diamonds from Flawless (FL) to Included (I). However, a stone doesn’t have to be at the very top of the scale—Flawless or Very Very Slightly Included (VVS)—to look perfect and inclusion-free. It’s all about how eye-clean the diamond appears, and Mills says this is what usually surprises people most when viewing diamonds in person. In fact, if an SI1 (Slightly Included) clarity diamond appears perfectly eye-clean, there is no visible difference between a VVS1 (Very Very Slightly Included) clarity stone of the exact same carat, color, and cut—minus about tens of thousands of dollars.
Diamond Clarity Descriptions
IF (Internally Flawless): Diamonds in this category have no internal flaws visible under 10x magnification. There might be minor surface blemishes, but the internal structure is flawless.
VVS1 (Very, Very Slightly Included 1): VVS1 diamonds contain minute inclusions that are extremely difficult to detect under 10x magnification. These inclusions are tiny pinpoints or very faint lines.
VVS2 (Very, Very Slightly Included 2): VVS2 diamonds have slightly larger inclusions than VVS1 stones, but they are still very challenging to see without magnification. These inclusions are still minor and do not affect the diamond’s overall appearance.
VS1 (Very Slightly Included 1): In VS1 diamonds, inclusions are visible under 10x magnification but are considered minor. They are harder to detect with the naked eye, making these diamonds an excellent choice for those seeking good value without compromising much on quality.
VS2 (Very Slightly Included 2): VS2 diamonds contain slightly larger or more numerous inclusions than VS1 stones. While these inclusions are still minor, they might be visible to a keen observer without magnification.
SI1 (Slightly Included 1): SI1 diamonds have noticeable inclusions under 10x magnification. These inclusions might be visible to the naked eye, especially to a trained gemologist, but they usually do not affect the diamond’s overall brilliance.
SI2 (Slightly Included 2): SI2 diamonds contain inclusions that are visible to a skilled grader under 10x magnification. Some of these inclusions might be visible to the naked eye, impacting the diamond’s transparency and brilliance.
I1 (Included 1), I2 (Included 2), I3 (Included 3): Diamonds in these categories have inclusions visible to the naked eye. I1 diamonds have inclusions that are easily visible, while I2 and I3 diamonds have more prominent and numerous inclusions, which significantly impact their appearance and brilliance.
Cut
Cut is the only diamond component not influenced by nature, and Mills considers this the most important of the 4Cs. This factor refers to the quality of the diamond’s cut, not the shape or size (although these can be interchangeable), and how well the stone is faceted, proportioned, and polished. This also determines how the diamond interacts with light. Brilliance, which is the diamond’s ability to return light to the eye, is measured solely by the stone’s cut (color and clarity have no impact). For any diamond shape, visually, cut is the first C to consider, followed by color, and, least as important, clarity (as long as the diamond has no visible imperfections).
Per the GIA system, diamond cuts are graded as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor. Cut grade doesn’t influence the cost as much as the other Cs, so Mills suggests always sticking within the Excellent to Very Good range for a well-cut stone that works best with light. “Any range of color and eye-clean clarity will be beautiful and super bright if the diamond is well cut,” he says.
Diamond Cut Descriptions
Emerald Cut: Emerald-cut diamonds are rectangular with cut corners, resembling steps when viewed from above. They are known for their elegant, understated look and open, large table, which highlights the clarity of the diamond.
Marquise Cut: Marquise-cut diamonds have an elongated oval shape with pointed ends, resembling a football or boat. This cut maximizes the diamond’s carat weight, making it appear larger than other shapes of similar weight.
Pear Cut: Pear-shaped diamonds combine the round and marquise shapes, with a rounded end and a pointed end. They are often used in earrings, pendants, and engagement rings, offering a unique and feminine appearance.
Oval Cut: Oval-cut diamonds are a variation of the round brilliant cut, featuring an elongated shape. They provide a similar sparkle to round diamonds and create the illusion of longer, slender fingers when worn as a ring.
Round Brilliant Cut: Round diamonds are the most popular and classic choice. They have 58 facets, maximizing the diamond’s brilliance and sparkle. Round brilliant-cut diamonds are versatile and suitable for various jewelry styles.
Princess Cut: Princess-cut diamonds are square-shaped with pointed corners. They are known for their sharp corners and brilliant sparkle, making them a popular choice for engagement rings.
Cushion Cut: Cushion-cut diamonds have rounded corners and larger facets, creating a softer appearance. They come in square or rectangular shapes and offer a blend of sparkle and vintage charm.
Asscher Cut: Asscher-cut diamonds are similar to emerald cuts but are square in shape. They feature step facets and a high crown, giving them a unique, Art Deco-inspired appearance.
Heart Cut: Heart-shaped diamonds are a symbol of love and romance. They have a distinct heart shape with a cleft at the top and require skillful cutting to achieve a well-proportioned and symmetrical look.
Radiant Cut: Radiant-cut diamonds combine the elegance of the emerald cut with the brilliance of the round cut. They have trimmed corners and are often rectangular or square, offering a vibrant sparkle.
Color
Diamond colors fall under a D-Z scale, with D meaning completely colorless (and the most expensive), and Z having a light yellow hue. According to Mills, standard diamond quality falls within the D-J color grade. The shape of the diamond also influences its spot on the color scale. A round brilliant diamond, for example, hides color incredibly well, meaning you can go further down the scale without seeing any yellowing. However, longer diamond shapes, like oval and radiant, reveal color much easier. Keep in mind, though, diamond color is essentially personal preference and doesn’t indicate quality whatsoever.
Another to note is With round, emerald, and Asscher cuts, you can typically go as low as a J grade without seeing any incredibly noticeable color. On the other hand, cuts such as oval, cushion, radiant, pear, princess, marquise, and heart require quality a bit higher on the scale (G and up) so as not to see any color.
Diamond Color Descriptions
D (Colorless): D-grade diamonds are completely colorless and are the rarest and most valuable. They allow maximum light reflection and are highly sought after for their pure, icy appearance.
E (Colorless): E-grade diamonds are also colorless and extremely rare. The difference in color between D and E diamonds is nearly imperceptible to the naked eye. They exhibit exceptional brilliance and are considered top-tier stones.
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F (Colorless): F-grade diamonds are still considered colorless but might have tiny, subtle hints of color that are difficult to detect without a trained eye. They are highly valuable and offer an excellent balance of quality and value.
G (Near Colorless): G-grade diamonds are near colorless and appear almost colorless to the naked eye. They offer a good balance between quality and affordability, making them a popular choice for engagement rings and other jewelry.
H (Near Colorless): H-grade diamonds have a faint yellow tint that is generally not noticeable when set in jewelry. They offer good value for money, as the slight color is often difficult to distinguish without a comparison to higher-grade stones.
I (Near Colorless): I-grade diamonds have a noticeable, warm yellow hue that becomes more apparent to the naked eye. However, they can appear nearly colorless when set in jewelry, especially in larger sizes.
J (Near Colorless): J-grade diamonds have a faint yellow or brown tint that is visible to the naked eye. They are often chosen for their affordability and can appear relatively colorless when set in yellow gold.
K, L (Faint Yellow): K and L-grade diamonds have a noticeable yellow or brown color. While the color is more apparent, they can still be a good choice for those on a budget, especially when set in yellow gold, where the color is less noticeable.
M-Z (Very Light to Light Yellow/Brown): Diamonds in the M to Z range exhibit a more pronounced yellow or brown color. While these diamonds are not considered desirable for traditional diamond jewelry, they can be used creatively in vintage or alternative jewelry designs.
Carat (Size)
Last but not least, carat refers to a measurement of the actual weight of the diamond. According to GIA, one carat converts to 0.2 grams, which is essentially the same weight as a paper clip. Naturally, the larger the carat, the more expensive the diamond. Because no two diamonds are completely identical, carat should be viewed as a guideline, since it only determines the weight of the stone as opposed to the actual size. “You can have five diamonds, let’s say oval, all exactly 2.00 carats, all the same color, clarity, and cut, but they will all be slightly different sizes and shapes,” Mills explains.
A diamond carat is divided into 100 points, meaning a 50-point diamond weighs 0.50 carats. However, a stone with a certain weight may actually look larger than the carat suggests due to its dimensions (measured in millimeters). For example, you could potentially find a diamond that weighs 2.00 carats but appears closer to a 2.20 carat stone. Essentially, you’re buying a stone that looks larger without the extra cost associated with a higher weight.
Diamond Sizing Descriptions
0.10 carat (.10 ct): Diamonds in this size range are small and delicate, often used as accents in jewelry pieces or in smaller earrings. They are ideal for those who prefer subtle, dainty jewelry.
0.25 carat (.25 ct): A quarter-carat diamond is a popular choice for accent stones in rings or earrings. It provides a noticeable sparkle without being too overpowering, making it versatile for various jewelry designs.
0.50 carat (.50 ct): Half-carat diamonds are a classic choice for engagement rings. They offer a significant appearance and are considered a benchmark size for those seeking a balance between size and budget.
0.75 carat (.75 ct): Three-quarter carat diamonds provide a larger and more noticeable presence. They are an excellent choice for engagement rings, offering a brilliant sparkle without the price tag of a full carat.
1 carat (1.00 ct): One-carat diamonds are highly coveted and often seen as a symbol of luxury and elegance. They are a popular choice for engagement rings and other statement pieces due to their substantial size and brilliance.
1.25 carats (1.25 ct): Diamonds in this range offer a slightly larger appearance than a one-carat stone. They provide an elegant and impressive look, making them suitable for those who desire a statement piece with a touch of sophistication.
1.50 carats (1.50 ct): One and a half-carat diamonds provide a significant presence on the finger. They are eye-catching and make a bold statement, perfect for those who appreciate larger, dazzling stones.
1.75 carats (1.75 ct): Diamonds in this size range offer an impressive appearance without being too extravagant. They are ideal for individuals who want a substantial stone without the high price associated with larger carat weights.
2 carats (2.00 ct): Two-carat diamonds are a luxurious choice and are considered a significant milestone in the diamond world. They exude elegance and extravagance, making them perfect for special occasions and high-end jewelry pieces.
2.50 carats (2.50 ct): Diamonds of this size are large and attention-grabbing. They make a bold statement and are often chosen for engagement rings, anniversary bands, and other celebratory jewelry items.